Attractive Bouquets and Arrangements of Peony Flowers for the Event

When seeding Peony Flowers as soon as they are acquired, being cautious to set the division so that the top of the buds will be from 1-1/2 to two inches below the final soil grade after the plants are properly watered and have completed settling. If planted too deep you will likely obtain pretty foliage with some or no blooms, and if too shallow, the buds will be open and are likely to get broken off by Old Shep when he serves notice on a stray cat or rabbit.

You should expect blooms from three to five eye divisions the very first time. Only 7 of the 60 varieties I grown in my backyard a few years ago didn't grow the first year. The flowers made a wonderful display of flowers the third season right after planting.

Digging and dividing large, old peony clumps is no simple task, since many home gardeners have discovered. If the freshly-dug clump is left confronted with the air for a while, the roots will become fewer brittle and are quicker handled without breaking. The soil which is firmly held by the roots is better removed with a flow of water from the hose.

Don't basically cut the clump in half and plant the 2 peonies without having eliminating any of the old large roots. Those divisions rely on the old roots for nourishment and seldom bloom. The clump must be cut into smaller divisions, typically with from 3 to 5 eyes, a few of the older roots eliminated and the others shortened to around six inches. This method energizes the production of new roots which increases the plant's vigor and productiveness. A stout butcher knife and a hammer are good division tools.

Proven plants may be fertilized in early spring having a handful of well-balanced plant food used in a ring about each plant and stirred into the soil.

To Maintain Color

Most peony flowers fade in sunshine and if left to open and stand in the sun they lose most of their delicate elegance. If you need to use Peony Flowers for display in a flower show or as a bouquet in the house, cut the flowers and let them open in the dark or no less than in incomplete shade. Do not cut stems so long that all of the leaves are used with the stalk. This would often weaken the flower.

Peony Flowers that are properly grown and maintained are rarely irritated by diseases. The foliage is seldom infected by bugs. Plants needs to be very carefully watched and if any disease happens the impacted parts needs to be taken out and ruined.

Root knot, leaf spot and botrytis blight are the three most typical ailments. Root knot may be avoided by growing clean, healthy divisions in disease-free soil. New plants should not be occur an old bed where root knot has occurred. If the plants are correctly spaced, almost no damage is carried out by leaf spot.

Botrytis blight is likely to be the most significant peony illness. It affects stems, buds and leaves just like in caring for orchid plants. Young stalks in early spring suddenly wilt and fall over, and young buds change dark and dry up. Later on, larger buds which become afflicted turn brown and neglect to open up. For control, get rid of and ruin all afflicted parts as soon as they show up. Cut-off all tops close to the crowns in the fall and burn. If serious infestation has occurred before, take away the upper 2 inches of soil around the plants and change with fresh disease-free soil